Wind Generated Surface Waves
Autumn, even numbered years. The course is taught when there are sufficiently enough students.
Objectives and Content
The course covers wind-generated waves, linear and non-linear theory of gravity waves in shallow and deep water, theories of how waves are generated by the wind and observation methods of waves and the treatment of wave data. Statistical tools in the interpretation of wave data and models of wave forecasting will also be discussed. Compulsory exercises and seminars are parts of the course.
When you have taken this course you should be able to:
- explain how the surface waves propagate and disperse in deep and shallow waters
- discuss the main features of the theories for wind sea generation.
- apply statistical methods to handle wave observations.
- describe various wave prediction methods, numerical and manual.
Required Previous Knowledge
Bachelor's degree in Meteorology and Oceanography, in addition to GEOF330 Dynamical Oceanography and GEOF331 Tidal Dynamics, or equivalent.
Compulsory Assignments and Attendance
Exercises and seminar.
(Valid for four semesters: The semester mandatory activities have been approved and the three following semesters.)
Forms of Assessment
Oral. No auxiliary allowed for the exam.
The grading scale used is A to F. Grade A is the highest passing grade in the grading scale, grade F is a fail.